The goal of this pilot is to show that mechanical textile recycling of polyester is possible in Canada, provided that we can connect the right stakeholders and build supply chains. The end product will be consumer-facing and sold in retail locations in order to better understand the business case. Mechanically recycled textiles are typically downcycled into hidden products like insulation or under padding. We created a local recycling supply chain and will convene a national stakeholder learning group to gain deep insights into the challenges and opportunities, with a goal for them to replicate and/or scale our pilot.

An in-store take-back scheme will run in 10 Sport Chek stores (owned by Canadian Tire Corp) located in southwestern Ontario (aiming for 100% polyester). The material will be chopped, shredded, carded, and needle-punched to make a felted prototype. The new (recycled) material will undergo nonwoven testing for product compliance. This will result in a report that includes testing protocols, results, and technical recommendations, and will ultimately determine if the product qualifies to market or regulatory specifications (identified upon testing resulting fibre). It will also measure the density of the material, tensile strength, thickness, puncture testing, fire resistance, compression strength, etc. A workshop will be held at the recycling facility and mill to train the participants of the learning group so that the knowledge is shared among stakeholders. This will remove a common barrier to mechanical textile recycling which is that stakeholders who have the potential to replicate or scale are not knowledgeable about these processes. FTA will engage the learning group and product development teams in a co-creating workshop where we will explore the various ideas for potential end products based on the created fabric, supply chain, and market interest. This is an opportune time to gather feedback on what products could be made and sold by other retail partners. From the ideas selected in the workshop, we will explore and design end products (up to 3), and produce the prototypes that may include embellishment, pattern, cutting, assembling. The prototypes, similar products, and label regulations will be presented to the learning group and the final product will be selected. Production of the final prototype will begin and the remaining fibres will be produced into felted material (approx. 1000m) for Canadian Tire to go into product manufacturing. A marketing strategy will be developed and executed to sell the product in stores so that the public is aware of the new recycled product. The product will then go to market, which demonstrates to the industry that there is a business case for recycled content in the products they sell.

FTA has set up a recycling supply chain with the following stakeholders who play an active role in the pilot: Canadian Tire/Sport Chek, Goodwill Great Lakes Ontario, General Recycled, Texe, Marianne-Coquelicot Mercier. In addition to the supply chain partners, a learning group has been established with 20-25 stakeholders that consist of selected individuals who represent an organization interested in learning how to mechanically recycle textiles. While this pilot is focused on 100% polyester, the learning group will also be able to identify the opportunities and/or challenges in recycling other materials. The group members can observe and participate in workshops while connecting with potential partners for their own pilots. This group will be involved at each step of the pilot, participating in several workshops, and would therefore be “trained" on the entire process, while having the opportunity to connect with other potential partners. In addition, they will be involved at the product development stage and will have a better understanding of the potential for end products and markets. By bringing together key organizations & stakeholders (that could invest in a recycling infrastructure) to learn how to create new end products and markets, we can achieve success through the mutual learning process. Knowledge is shared, and barriers are removed, leading to the scaling of the technology. Over the course of 16 months (September 2021 – January 2023), the participants will attend approximately 6 workshops ranging in length from 2-4 hours. One workshop however will be held in Quebec as we hope the group can visit the facilities. Finally, a guidance document will be completed to demonstrate learnings and provide a useful tool for future textile recycling projects. FTA’s role is to manage the entire project, set up and organize the pilot supply chain partners, convene, design, and facilitate workshops, bring in experts when required, and produce the guidance document.

All of FTA’s work is governed by our Board of Directors which currently has 13 members including 3 appointed positions of Chair, Treasurer, and Secretary. This particular initiative has been funded by Environment and Climate Change Canada and therefore, in addition to our Board, as per the requirements of the grant, it will largely be governed by ECCC. This will consist of regular check-ins, cash flow reports, etc. The project will be co-led by our executive director Kelly Drennan and Sabine Weber who is a professor at Seneca College school of fashion.

Fashion Takes Action, Seneca College, Canadian Tire/Sport Chek, Goodwill Great Lakes Ontario, General Recycled, Texel, Marianne-Coquelicot Mercier.